So here is what happenend, following some of the leads from here I got
myself a can of wrinkle paint through a local automotive supplier.

They want three heavy coats spaced ten minutes apart and then leave it alone
for 24h.

The wrinkle develops after 2 or so hours if you did everything right, mostly
that means heavy even coats.

I tested the stuff on an angled piece with corners and crevices and there it
is difficult to control the thickness and the results vary also. A flat
portion seems easier but you still need to control the thickness otherwise
you will end up with areas which don't wrinkle.

For my purpose, rejuvenating the face plate of a military type electronic
device I think I will be fine, but I can see that there is definetly a
learning curve before I spray paint my Bolex movie camera here in the
kitchen...

73 Uwe





in article ,
Paul_Morphy at wrote on 4/21/04 00:44:


"Mike T." wrote in message
...
See above links for various possibilities, sorry I can't help you.
However,
being a 'film professsional', by virture of my job, I've also seen these
cameras 'up close'. What I was wondering was: is this truly 'paint' on
those
Arri's or more like a custom colored & baked on finish. The finishes are
almost bulletproof / scratchproof and talk about resilient. If those
cameras
are indeed 'painted' - it's amazing because of it's durability.

These are Swiss and German cameras, after all. They don't fool around.
Commercial wrinkle finish required a few steps to complete, it wasn't simply
sprayed on. Like all good paint jobs, it was baked, which hardens it. I once
saw a 1969 GTO done in black wrinkle. Saved having to wax it, I guess.

73,

"PM"

I got
myself a can of wrinkle paint through a local automotive supplier.

They want three heavy coats spaced ten minutes apart and then leave it alone
for 24h.

Uwe-

It sounds like you're on the right track now.

I played with wrinkle finish paint as a teenager, fixing up several old
pot-metal microphone cases. There are probably more options today than there
were then. It may have been Krylon that I used, but I don't recall.

One thing I remember, is that you can get non-wrinkle paints to wrinkle by
applying a second coat before the first has dried completely. That is
essentially what your instructions do, except your automotive paint should be
optimized for wrinkling.

Three coats may produce a gorgeous wrinkle finish, but I wonder if it might be
delicate to handle. You might run tests to see if two coats will wrinkle
sufficiently and not be as easily damaged by rough handling.

Another thing to try while you are experimenting, is to wrinkle-paint a sample
item and then bake it. You don't want to scorch the paint, just let it cook
for 30 minutes or an hour at 200 or 250 degrees F, and let it cool. See if
that toughens the wrinkled surface so it will withstand some abuse. (If
someone knows about baked-on paint, they may give you better advice on time and
temperature.)

73, Fred, K4DII

I got
myself a can of wrinkle paint through a local automotive supplier.

They want three heavy coats spaced ten minutes apart and then leave it alone
for 24h.

Uwe-

It sounds like you're on the right track now.

I played with wrinkle finish paint as a teenager, fixing up several old
pot-metal microphone cases. There are probably more options today than there
were then. It may have been Krylon that I used, but I don't recall.

One thing I remember, is that you can get non-wrinkle paints to wrinkle by
applying a second coat before the first has dried completely. That is
essentially what your instructions do, except your automotive paint should be
optimized for wrinkling.

Three coats may produce a gorgeous wrinkle finish, but I wonder if it might be
delicate to handle. You might run tests to see if two coats will wrinkle
sufficiently and not be as easily damaged by rough handling.

Another thing to try while you are experimenting, is to wrinkle-paint a sample
item and then bake it. You don't want to scorch the paint, just let it cook
for 30 minutes or an hour at 200 or 250 degrees F, and let it cool. See if
that toughens the wrinkled surface so it will withstand some abuse. (If
someone knows about baked-on paint, they may give you better advice on time and
temperature.)

73, Fred, K4DII

Fred, my reaction when I first read the instructions was, hell, I get a
wrinkly finish every time I paint somehing, I just never dared calling it a
wrinkle finish, I called it another desaster...

I checked the hardness of the coating after it had dried hanging over my
wood stove, which isn't running full tilt anymore, and there was still some
softness so I threw it in the oven, brought it to about 200F and then shut
it off, leavig the painted item inside.

That was yesterday and when I tested that piece right now it had markedly
improved the hardness of the paint, actually I would say it is an excellent
coating.


So success I guess, and I am already looking around the cabin to see what I
could wrinkle up next.

73 from Maine

Uwe

Uwe-

It sounds like you're on the right track now.

I played with wrinkle finish paint as a teenager, fixing up several old
pot-metal microphone cases. There are probably more options today than there
were then. It may have been Krylon that I used, but I don't recall.

One thing I remember, is that you can get non-wrinkle paints to wrinkle by
applying a second coat before the first has dried completely. That is
essentially what your instructions do, except your automotive paint should be
optimized for wrinkling.

Three coats may produce a gorgeous wrinkle finish, but I wonder if it might be
delicate to handle. You might run tests to see if two coats will wrinkle
sufficiently and not be as easily damaged by rough handling.

Another thing to try while you are experimenting, is to wrinkle-paint a sample
item and then bake it. You don't want to scorch the paint, just let it cook
for 30 minutes or an hour at 200 or 250 degrees F, and let it cool. See if
that toughens the wrinkled surface so it will withstand some abuse. (If
someone knows about baked-on paint, they may give you better advice on time
and
temperature.)

73, Fred, K4DII

Fred, my reaction when I first read the instructions was, hell, I get a
wrinkly finish every time I paint somehing, I just never dared calling it a
wrinkle finish, I called it another desaster...

I checked the hardness of the coating after it had dried hanging over my
wood stove, which isn't running full tilt anymore, and there was still some
softness so I threw it in the oven, brought it to about 200F and then shut
it off, leavig the painted item inside.

That was yesterday and when I tested that piece right now it had markedly
improved the hardness of the paint, actually I would say it is an excellent
coating.


So success I guess, and I am already looking around the cabin to see what I
could wrinkle up next.

73 from Maine

Uwe

Uwe-

It sounds like you're on the right track now.

I played with wrinkle finish paint as a teenager, fixing up several old
pot-metal microphone cases. There are probably more options today than there
were then. It may have been Krylon that I used, but I don't recall.

One thing I remember, is that you can get non-wrinkle paints to wrinkle by
applying a second coat before the first has dried completely. That is
essentially what your instructions do, except your automotive paint should be
optimized for wrinkling.

Three coats may produce a gorgeous wrinkle finish, but I wonder if it might be
delicate to handle. You might run tests to see if two coats will wrinkle
sufficiently and not be as easily damaged by rough handling.

Another thing to try while you are experimenting, is to wrinkle-paint a sample
item and then bake it. You don't want to scorch the paint, just let it cook
for 30 minutes or an hour at 200 or 250 degrees F, and let it cool. See if
that toughens the wrinkled surface so it will withstand some abuse. (If
someone knows about baked-on paint, they may give you better advice on time
and
temperature.)

73, Fred, K4DII

Uwe wrote:

It is the kind of paint finish you see on Bolex and Arriflex movie cameras,
I also see it on military style electronic gear, very resilient, black
crinkly finish which also prevents the item from slipping out of your hand.

Hi,

sorry if I take a wrong guess, but by your name, I'd say yu're
german. In Germany, "Hammerite" markets these kinds of paints in
various colours.

vy 73 de Volker

Uwe wrote:

It is the kind of paint finish you see on Bolex and Arriflex movie cameras,
I also see it on military style electronic gear, very resilient, black
crinkly finish which also prevents the item from slipping out of your hand.

Hi,

sorry if I take a wrong guess, but by your name, I'd say yu're
german. In Germany, "Hammerite" markets these kinds of paints in
various colours.

vy 73 de Volker

In Germany, "Hammerite" markets these kinds of paints in
various colours.
====================
Same in the UK

Frank GM0CSZ / KN6WH

In Germany, "Hammerite" markets these kinds of paints in
various colours.
====================
Same in the UK

Frank GM0CSZ / KN6WH