With your insistence on emitting
rather silly and childish remarks perhaps you
are, in reality, a CBer-Masquerading-As-A-Radio-Ham
at best?

Stupid boy.

"mexico_zero" wrote in message
...
"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message
...
I recommend for you a study scheme for the full Ham Radio
licence, because there is then a remote (because of your demonstrated
CBness below) chance that you will come across the gentlemanly
traditions of Ham Radio.
Been licenced since '87, am capable of 12wpm+ CW, been working in the
aerospace industry since '85. I forgive your misjudgements but must advise
you to stop signing off as 'Stupid Boy'. You're just a little 'restricted'
with your engineering intelligence but don't worry, it'll come with time.
I
believe there are engineering newsgroups also avaialable to assist your
learning...

"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message
...
Do you wish to contribute to the discussion as a mature
Radio Ham and outline your procedure for the same
problem, or do you wish to be condemned forever
as a childish CBer sneering 'n' jeering from the sidelines?


Ok, as a straight answer, it was unwise to force the thread, but you knew
that already. If there was any foreign body to restrict the threads,
excessive force would only serve to damage the components. Such tactics are
truly 'last resort' to get you home in an emergency. If you're sure the
threads are clean and compatable then the application of a lubricant may
help. I often find this with dissimilar metals, titanium being a major
culprit for 'grabbing' dry inserts.

....HTH...

"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message
...
I'm now well on the way to repairing the 5/8ths where I had to
engage in destructive test - I've been given a large sheet of
Paxolin/Tufnol which is 7/8ths of an inch thick, so 3 thicknesses
of that araldited together and turned down should do the
trick.
Tufnell is a very lossy dielectric when used outdoors.

Steve H


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"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message
...
It is standard practice when you have a tight/rusty
screw but neither the tap nor the die for the thread
to drive a nut against the corrosion.

Stupid boy.


You can tighten slightly the nut on the screw then tap the around sides of
the nut freeing off the thread. next tighten down again and repeat until
sufficiant thread is compatible with the nut.

BTW... don't change the nut for another.

KW

"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message
...
Do you wish to contribute to the discussion as a mature
Radio Ham and outline your procedure for the same
problem, or do you wish to be condemned forever
as a childish CBer sneering 'n' jeering from the sidelines?


Actually, it is you who is sneering 'n' jeering. As is the norm.

"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message
...
I recommend for you a study scheme for the full Ham Radio
licence, because there is then a remote (because of your demonstrated
CBness below) chance that you will come across the gentlemanly
traditions of Ham Radio.


Advice you could well heed yourself.

"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message
...
It is standard practice when you have a tight/rusty
screw but neither the tap nor the die for the thread
to drive a nut against the corrosion.


Not to the extent that you fettle it.

Correct practice is, wire brush away corrosion if heavy, lubricate, turn the
nut, back off the nut, turn, back off, etc.

However, materials in the antennas your refer to rarely corrode if not used.

Face the truth Gareth, you just screwed it. Didn't you. Just like
Westinghouse.

"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message
...
Thanks for that, Walt - perhaps now is the time to scream
about "grey" imports if these were intended only for the internal
Japanese Market?


When was the last time you did any real engineering. Metric threads are the
norm these days. Have been for ages.

"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message
...
Thanks for that, Walt - perhaps now is the time to scream
about "grey" imports if these were intended only for the internal
Japanese Market?

Unfortunately the Diamond colinear to replace the 5/8ths suffered
from the same problem, and the cable is jammed solidly onto the
antenna, so we may be stuck with it! I assumed that the lower part of the
SO239's screw thread was dirty and so drove the nut home with a
pair of pliers, assuming that this would clear the screw thread - we live
and learn!

Why would a new connector be so dirty?

"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message
...
Thanks for that, Walt - perhaps now is the time to scream
about "grey" imports if these were intended only for the internal
Japanese Market?

Unfortunately the Diamond colinear to replace the 5/8ths suffered
from the same problem, and the cable is jammed solidly onto the
antenna, so we may be stuck with it! I assumed that the lower part of the
SO239's screw thread was dirty and so drove the nut home with a
pair of pliers, assuming that this would clear the screw thread - we live
and learn!

I'm now well on the way to repairing the 5/8ths where I had to
engage in destructive test - I've been given a large sheet of
Paxolin/Tufnol which is 7/8ths of an inch thick, so 3 thicknesses
of that araldited together and turned down should do the
trick.


I see another Gareth disaster.

Do you know that Paxolin and Tufnol are not the same thing and both likely
to be lossey if used outside?