Many years ago GC Electronics of Rockford, Illinois, supplied a fast-
acting enamel stripping gel under the trade name of "Strip-X." It
would "lift" the enamel within a minute or two, was rather pungent
and no doubt (in today's ultra-health-conscious world) toxic.

When my last bottle ran dry, I got some paint stripper from a
neighbor that worked nearly as well. Alax, neighbor moved away
and I never recorded the name of the commercial paint stripper.

Anyone have any suggestions for a chemical stripper gel or
solution? Will PCB "stripper" gel work on enamel-covered
magnet wire? [expensive stuff for a tiny bottle of that]

Mechanical means of enamel stripping are the pits and I can't
justify the cost of a commercial stripper machine such as the
Eraser. Solution solutions welcomed.

Stripping magnet wire? You mean like after making coils and wanting to
solder them to something? Why bother? Just put a blob of solder on
your iron's tip and put the end of the magnet wire into the solder blob.
After several seconds, the insulation will melt off and the wire end
will be tinned with solder and ready for install!

Scott
N0EDV

Avery Fineman wrote:
Many years ago GC Electronics of Rockford, Illinois, supplied a fast-
acting enamel stripping gel under the trade name of "Strip-X." It
would "lift" the enamel within a minute or two, was rather pungent
and no doubt (in today's ultra-health-conscious world) toxic.

When my last bottle ran dry, I got some paint stripper from a
neighbor that worked nearly as well. Alax, neighbor moved away
and I never recorded the name of the commercial paint stripper.

Anyone have any suggestions for a chemical stripper gel or
solution? Will PCB "stripper" gel work on enamel-covered
magnet wire? [expensive stuff for a tiny bottle of that]

Mechanical means of enamel stripping are the pits and I can't
justify the cost of a commercial stripper machine such as the
Eraser. Solution solutions welcomed.

"Scott" wrote in message
...
Stripping magnet wire? You mean like after making coils and wanting to
solder them to something? Why bother? Just put a blob of solder on
your iron's tip and put the end of the magnet wire into the solder blob.
After several seconds, the insulation will melt off and the wire end
will be tinned with solder and ready for install!

Scott
N0EDV

This is only true for some types- like Belden Soldereze. Many others will
not be touched by heat- formvar for example.

Dale W4OP

Dale Parfitt wrote:
"Scott" wrote in message
...

Stripping magnet wire? You mean like after making coils and wanting to
solder them to something? Why bother? Just put a blob of solder on
your iron's tip and put the end of the magnet wire into the solder blob.
After several seconds, the insulation will melt off and the wire end
will be tinned with solder and ready for install!

Scott
N0EDV

This is only true for some types- like Belden Soldereze. Many others will

not be touched by heat- formvar for example.

Dale W4OP


I usually just take a piece of 120-400 grit sandpaper, fold it in half
and pull the wire through it. Several passes usually is enough.

Ha! I learn something new everyday! I use the "cheap" stuff from
places like Mouser Electronics. Not sure what kind it is, but (so far)
haven't had trouble melting it.

Scott
N0EDV

Dale Parfitt wrote:
"Scott" wrote in message
...

Stripping magnet wire? You mean like after making coils and wanting to
solder them to something? Why bother? Just put a blob of solder on
your iron's tip and put the end of the magnet wire into the solder blob.
After several seconds, the insulation will melt off and the wire end
will be tinned with solder and ready for install!

Scott
N0EDV

This is only true for some types- like Belden Soldereze. Many others will

not be touched by heat- formvar for example.

Dale W4OP

Try "Zip Strip" -- methylene chloride -- use gloves.

"Avery Fineman" wrote in message
...
Many years ago GC Electronics of Rockford, Illinois, supplied a fast-
acting enamel stripping gel under the trade name of "Strip-X." It
would "lift" the enamel within a minute or two, was rather pungent
and no doubt (in today's ultra-health-conscious world) toxic.

When my last bottle ran dry, I got some paint stripper from a
neighbor that worked nearly as well. Alax, neighbor moved away
and I never recorded the name of the commercial paint stripper.

Anyone have any suggestions for a chemical stripper gel or
solution? Will PCB "stripper" gel work on enamel-covered
magnet wire? [expensive stuff for a tiny bottle of that]

Mechanical means of enamel stripping are the pits and I can't
justify the cost of a commercial stripper machine such as the
Eraser. Solution solutions welcomed.

There's also the Abisofix stripper. Not really cheap either, but
works well if you need to strip a log of magnet wire.

http://www.abisofix.de/English/Abisofix/abisofix.html


boB




On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 13:48:22 -0500, "John Walton"
wrote:

Try "Zip Strip" -- methylene chloride -- use gloves.

"Avery Fineman" wrote in message
...
Many years ago GC Electronics of Rockford, Illinois, supplied a fast-
acting enamel stripping gel under the trade name of "Strip-X." It
would "lift" the enamel within a minute or two, was rather pungent
and no doubt (in today's ultra-health-conscious world) toxic.

When my last bottle ran dry, I got some paint stripper from a
neighbor that worked nearly as well. Alax, neighbor moved away
and I never recorded the name of the commercial paint stripper.

Anyone have any suggestions for a chemical stripper gel or
solution? Will PCB "stripper" gel work on enamel-covered
magnet wire? [expensive stuff for a tiny bottle of that]

Mechanical means of enamel stripping are the pits and I can't
justify the cost of a commercial stripper machine such as the
Eraser. Solution solutions welcomed.

In article , Ken Scharf
writes:

Dale Parfitt wrote:
"Scott" wrote in message
...

Stripping magnet wire? You mean like after making coils and wanting to
solder them to something? Why bother? Just put a blob of solder on
your iron's tip and put the end of the magnet wire into the solder blob.
After several seconds, the insulation will melt off and the wire end
will be tinned with solder and ready for install!

Scott
N0EDV

This is only true for some types- like Belden Soldereze. Many others will

not be touched by heat- formvar for example.

Dale W4OP

I usually just take a piece of 120-400 grit sandpaper, fold it in half
and pull the wire through it. Several passes usually is enough.

Thanks for the comment on the old, tried-and-true chemical-less
way. Finishing sandpaper (dark grey abrasive surface) will work
on 36 gauge old-style enamel covered wire, also on 25 gauge
(rare, surplus from transformer winder) Teflon covered. Takes a
bit of practice and "feel" to keep from abrading too much of the
copper on the very small gauges. :-)

I use the little squares of finishing grit paper cut into four smaller
pieces, each of those folded in two. Lightly holding the fold-over,
a couple passes over the wire end is all that is needed.

On the suggestions by others -

"Soldereze" and "Thermaleze" wire would strip just by soldering
iron heating of the copper right at the cut...but still needs some
abrading after starting the melt sometimes. I've used that, but
ran out. In winding toroids by hand, that kind tends to expose
the copper in places unseen except by high magnification. For
that former the old enamel type seems to be the sturdiest (with
exception of rare and way-over-expensive Teflon-covered). In my
experience that includes Kynar covered wire-wrap type...others'
mileage may vary.

"Zip Strip" (methylene chloride) is an unknown here, including the
supplier. [no supplier source posted]

The old GC "Strip-X" was the best for quick one-of-a-kind coil
winding. It was definitely acidic by odor and reaction to some
other materials...would have some enamel "lifting" action within
ten seconds of application. Alas, my father-in-law, a polymer
chemist, passed on a quarter century ago and cannot help with
expert advice on this. :-(

The search for a quick stripper (of wire) goes on...perhaps aided
by "inductive reasoning?" :-) Thanks again to all for replying.

Behold, Avery Fineman signalled from keyed 4-1000A filament:


"Zip Strip" (methylene chloride) is an unknown here, including the
supplier. [no supplier source posted]

Methylene chloride is used to glue plexiglass. Check an acrylic plastics
dealer.

--
Gregg t3h g33k
"Ratings are for transistors....tubes have guidelines"
http://geek.scorpiorising.ca

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