Does anyone know how to change the bulb behind the main tuning knob?
I've never done it and it needs replacement. Thanks in advance.

jberenyi wrote:

Does anyone know how to change the bulb behind the main tuning knob?
I've never done it and it needs replacement. Thanks in advance.

Oh boy! I haven't done that in a long time, but I almost think you have to pull
the DR7 board to get to it. Easy enough I suppose but if you've never done it
before then you might have a bit of hesitation yanking that board.

If I get a chance and no one else responds I'll pull the cover on my R7 and take
a look see.

dxAce
Michigan
USA

I've had mine apart when I was updating it. If you remove the
bandswitch/preselector range knob, the two black plastic side panels, and
the two screws on each side of the front panel that hold it to the chassis,
you can tilt the front panel enough to get at that light bulb.
If you use this same technique, it becomes much easier if you ever have to
pull out that DR-7 board. I used to always bend and tilt that DR-7 board
until I figured out this "lazy" way.

Pete

"dxAce" wrote in message
...


jberenyi wrote:

Does anyone know how to change the bulb behind the main tuning knob?
I've never done it and it needs replacement. Thanks in advance.

Oh boy! I haven't done that in a long time, but I almost think you have to
pull
the DR7 board to get to it. Easy enough I suppose but if you've never done
it
before then you might have a bit of hesitation yanking that board.

If I get a chance and no one else responds I'll pull the cover on my R7
and take
a look see.

dxAce
Michigan
USA

Pete KE9OA wrote:

I've had mine apart when I was updating it. If you remove the
bandswitch/preselector range knob, the two black plastic side panels, and
the two screws on each side of the front panel that hold it to the chassis,
you can tilt the front panel enough to get at that light bulb.
If you use this same technique, it becomes much easier if you ever have to
pull out that DR-7 board. I used to always bend and tilt that DR-7 board
until I figured out this "lazy" way.

I'll make a note of that method, Pete. Sounds like that would make it a bit
easier.

dxAce
Michigan
USA



Pete

"dxAce" wrote in message
...


jberenyi wrote:

Does anyone know how to change the bulb behind the main tuning knob?
I've never done it and it needs replacement. Thanks in advance.

Oh boy! I haven't done that in a long time, but I almost think you have to
pull
the DR7 board to get to it. Easy enough I suppose but if you've never done
it
before then you might have a bit of hesitation yanking that board.

If I get a chance and no one else responds I'll pull the cover on my R7
and take
a look see.

Hi Steve,

I learned the hard way once, when I cracked the 500kHz gating pin on the
PBT/Reference board when trying to force the DR-7 board back in. I had a
blank display...........I was able to isolate the problem by connecting an
external 500kHz source from a function generator and restoring normal
function.
On another note..........I have used those replacement displays that the
fellow in Germany makes. They work very well. It is pretty much impossible
nowaday to get ahold of those old National Semiconductor dual LED displays.

Pete

"dxAce" wrote in message
...


Pete KE9OA wrote:

I've had mine apart when I was updating it. If you remove the
bandswitch/preselector range knob, the two black plastic side panels, and
the two screws on each side of the front panel that hold it to the
chassis,
you can tilt the front panel enough to get at that light bulb.
If you use this same technique, it becomes much easier if you ever have
to
pull out that DR-7 board. I used to always bend and tilt that DR-7 board
until I figured out this "lazy" way.

I'll make a note of that method, Pete. Sounds like that would make it a
bit
easier.

dxAce
Michigan
USA



Pete

"dxAce" wrote in message
...


jberenyi wrote:

Does anyone know how to change the bulb behind the main tuning knob?
I've never done it and it needs replacement. Thanks in advance.

Oh boy! I haven't done that in a long time, but I almost think you have
to
pull
the DR7 board to get to it. Easy enough I suppose but if you've never
done
it
before then you might have a bit of hesitation yanking that board.

If I get a chance and no one else responds I'll pull the cover on my R7
and take
a look see.

Pete KE9OA wrote:

Hi Steve,

I learned the hard way once, when I cracked the 500kHz gating pin on the
PBT/Reference board when trying to force the DR-7 board back in. I had a
blank display...........I was able to isolate the problem by connecting an
external 500kHz source from a function generator and restoring normal
function.
On another note..........I have used those replacement displays that the
fellow in Germany makes. They work very well. It is pretty much impossible
nowaday to get ahold of those old National Semiconductor dual LED displays.

I've not had any display problems *yet*.

My most recent R7 was down for tune-up this November past by Jeff Covelli,
WA8SAJ, and he puts new bulbs in as part of the tune up. He also did that with a
previous one I had down there a few years ago.

He generally puts in new blue filter material as well.

http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArt...AJ_Repairs.htm

dxAce
Michigan
USA

dxAce wrote:
Pete KE9OA wrote:

Hi Steve,

I learned the hard way once, when I cracked the 500kHz gating pin on the
PBT/Reference board when trying to force the DR-7 board back in. I had a
blank display...........I was able to isolate the problem by connecting an
external 500kHz source from a function generator and restoring normal
function.
On another note..........I have used those replacement displays that the
fellow in Germany makes. They work very well. It is pretty much impossible
nowaday to get ahold of those old National Semiconductor dual LED displays.

I've not had any display problems *yet*.

My most recent R7 was down for tune-up this November past by Jeff Covelli,
WA8SAJ, and he puts new bulbs in as part of the tune up. He also did that with a
previous one I had down there a few years ago.

He generally puts in new blue filter material as well.

http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArt...AJ_Repairs.htm

dxAce
Michigan
USA


Jeff Covelli fixed my R7 once, I highly recommend him.

Thanks Pete!


Pete KE9OA wrote:
I've had mine apart when I was updating it. If you remove the
bandswitch/preselector range knob, the two black plastic side panels, and
the two screws on each side of the front panel that hold it to the chassis,
you can tilt the front panel enough to get at that light bulb.
If you use this same technique, it becomes much easier if you ever have to
pull out that DR-7 board. I used to always bend and tilt that DR-7 board
until I figured out this "lazy" way.

Pete

"dxAce" wrote in message
...


jberenyi wrote:

Does anyone know how to change the bulb behind the main tuning knob?
I've never done it and it needs replacement. Thanks in advance.

Oh boy! I haven't done that in a long time, but I almost think you have to
pull
the DR7 board to get to it. Easy enough I suppose but if you've never done
it
before then you might have a bit of hesitation yanking that board.

If I get a chance and no one else responds I'll pull the cover on my R7
and take
a look see.

dxAce
Michigan
USA