Bob wrote:
Terry -

Have you found any specific wall warts that you would consider
reasonably electrically quiet?

Thanks again, Bob

Even with wall warts that appear to be identical, the RFI varies a
great deal.
I go to the local good will store once every couple of weeks with my
trusty
DX398 and check out their constantly changing stock for quite ones.
Stay away from switch mode wall warts. They are very light weight and
are RFI demons.

I try to keep a selection on hand of the more common voltages and try
to
limit my purchases to those that are fastened with screws.

At home I have modifed nearly everything in the radio room to run from
+12V so I
only have to worry about the one big supply. It also makes operation
during power
outages easier as I have several GellCells on constant float ready to
take over
when the grid goes down.

I will try to assemble/edit down a list of usefull links and email, or
get Will to
email, them to you. The r2000swl/swler accounts are dead. Too much hate

filled spam.

What type receiver are you using?
What type antenna(s)....
What is your special interest...

It is hard to overestimate how much a good ground can improve every
situation.
"Good" is difficult to define, but in my mind it is much more then a
single
8' ground rod or a cold water pipe. A triad of three 8' ground rods
arranged in
a equalateral 12" triangle, interconnected by #8 solid copper wire is a
good
start. An alternative can be made with one 8' rod, and ~20' of soft
copper
tubing buried at lease a foot. The use of balanced antennas makes the
ground less critical. I am not a big fan of loops, but I have found
that active,
broadband dipoles, in the right places can reduce the need of a good
ground
nearly completly. And while I don't care much for loops, many first
class
DXers swear by them. Good, well balanced loops don't require much in
the
way of a ground.


Terry

wrote:
What type receiver are you using?
I have an Icom R75 and an Eton E1 and E5. Going to use the E5 for
"sniffing". I had a Drake R8 I used years ago when I was recovering
from hip replacement surgery, but I sold that one time when time & $
were scarce. If I get the noise under control, I may try to scheme up
a way to get an R8B, but don't know for sure. I liked the R8 a lot
except for carousel controls, crappy feet (broke one the first week I
had it, but epoxy repair lasted as long as I had it) and underwhelming
sync derector. Hence the R8B interest. So many toys, so little time
and $!

What type antenna(s)....
Am just starting on that. Have an indoor loop that is useless with
noise, so I'm not doing a lot of listening, just learning. We recently
moved into a "condo type" single level home with a homeowners
association and antenna restrictions. We are still unpacking the
basement and I have yet to find my soldering iron and some other stuff.
Just getting shelves set up so boxes can be unpacked. I figure active
antennas are the only real option, and again that's why I have to get
the noise out.

I have looked at RF Systems, LF Engineering, DX Engineering, Wellbrook,
Dressler....

I've narrowed it down some. Ordered a PA0RDT miniwhip, cause I can
hide it anywhere and if I choke the heck out of it maybe it will work
some. Will order ferrite toroids and LMR-100 (better shielded RG 174)
maybe this week. I've looked real hard at the AMRAD and at Dallas
Lankford's latest writings, but I'm no builder. yet, anyway :-). I
found a guy that builds the AMRAD unit. He has improved the design a
bit like clamping the heat sink to the Crystalonics unit. We have to
talk more, but I think I'll have him make me something. I've asked him
about Dallas' designs, but he has been travelling and it will be a week
or so to get it talked out I guess.

What is your special interest...

AM, tropical bands, and general shortwave.

It is hard to overestimate how much a good ground can improve every
situation.

I will hire someone to put a couple of 8 ft. ground rods near our deck,
and another one near our service entrance. The service panel is on one
side of the basement, and it connects to the incoming water line which
of course is at the opposite side of the basement. I thought I'd have
two rods at the deck connected by copper line similar to what Will did
and carry it (copper line) around the side to the ground rod near the
service entrance and a #2 or maybe 00 into the basement bonded to the
ground wire at the panel. That should improve the service ground too.
If we just do a slit like cable company does, I should get no heat from
the association, but the line probably won't be but a few inches deep.
I'm doing some work for the association, so hopefully have some good
will...

I am not a big fan of loops, but I have found
that active,
broadband dipoles, in the right places can reduce the need of a good
ground
nearly completly.

Noted.

And while I don't care much for loops, many first
class
DXers swear by them. Good, well balanced loops don't require much in
the
way of a ground.

I think active verticals or dipoles are more acceptable (mounted on or
near deck railing) than a loop visually. I doubt I could finese a loop
past the association. In a pinch, the AMRADs could mount 45 deg on
railing and be small flag poles.

This has gotten long, but thanks so much for your time.
Bob

Bob wrote:
wrote:
What type receiver are you using?
I have an Icom R75 and an Eton E1 and E5. Going to use the E5 for
"sniffing". I had a Drake R8 I used years ago when I was recovering
from hip replacement surgery, but I sold that one time when time & $
were scarce. If I get the noise under control, I may try to scheme up
a way to get an R8B, but don't know for sure. I liked the R8 a lot
except for carousel controls, crappy feet (broke one the first week I
had it, but epoxy repair lasted as long as I had it) and underwhelming
sync derector. Hence the R8B interest. So many toys, so little time
and $!

What type antenna(s)....
Am just starting on that. Have an indoor loop that is useless with
noise, so I'm not doing a lot of listening, just learning. We recently
moved into a "condo type" single level home with a homeowners
association and antenna restrictions. We are still unpacking the
basement and I have yet to find my soldering iron and some other stuff.
Just getting shelves set up so boxes can be unpacked. I figure active
antennas are the only real option, and again that's why I have to get
the noise out.

I have looked at RF Systems, LF Engineering, DX Engineering, Wellbrook,
Dressler....

I've narrowed it down some. Ordered a PA0RDT miniwhip, cause I can
hide it anywhere and if I choke the heck out of it maybe it will work
some. Will order ferrite toroids and LMR-100 (better shielded RG 174)
maybe this week. I've looked real hard at the AMRAD and at Dallas
Lankford's latest writings, but I'm no builder. yet, anyway :-). I
found a guy that builds the AMRAD unit. He has improved the design a
bit like clamping the heat sink to the Crystalonics unit. We have to
talk more, but I think I'll have him make me something. I've asked him
about Dallas' designs, but he has been travelling and it will be a week
or so to get it talked out I guess.

What is your special interest...

AM, tropical bands, and general shortwave.

It is hard to overestimate how much a good ground can improve every
situation.

I will hire someone to put a couple of 8 ft. ground rods near our deck,
and another one near our service entrance. The service panel is on one
side of the basement, and it connects to the incoming water line which
of course is at the opposite side of the basement. I thought I'd have
two rods at the deck connected by copper line similar to what Will did
and carry it (copper line) around the side to the ground rod near the
service entrance and a #2 or maybe 00 into the basement bonded to the
ground wire at the panel. That should improve the service ground too.
If we just do a slit like cable company does, I should get no heat from
the association, but the line probably won't be but a few inches deep.
I'm doing some work for the association, so hopefully have some good
will...

I am not a big fan of loops, but I have found
that active,
broadband dipoles, in the right places can reduce the need of a good
ground
nearly completly.

Noted.

And while I don't care much for loops, many first
class
DXers swear by them. Good, well balanced loops don't require much in
the
way of a ground.

I think active verticals or dipoles are more acceptable (mounted on or
near deck railing) than a loop visually. I doubt I could finese a loop
past the association. In a pinch, the AMRADs could mount 45 deg on
railing and be small flag poles.

This has gotten long, but thanks so much for your time.
Bob


For bang for the buck the North Country Active antenna works pretty
well.
According to Yodar from RHFs Yahoo antenna group they will assemble
it for you. It is small enough to hide and will work much better then
the
PA0RDT. In my opinnion, based on the tests that I have made, the
PA0RDT
simply doesn't have enough antenna to overcomm the internal noise in
the
active electronics. The North country would be my first choice if I
couldn't
get a Lankford, or it's near clone the AMRAD. The Real Deal LankFord is
significantly better then the AmRad. I have both. The North Country,
when
2 are connected for and active dipole similar to Dallas' summing is
almost
a great antenna. Biggest weakness comes from MW stations too close
bleeding
through. CBers close by can be a problem also.

The PA0RDT might work well enough for serious consideration with a
longer
antenna element.(and serious ferrite for common mode control and a very
good
ground) And for those who have used a PA0RDT and love it great. But I
base
my opinions on what I experience. The Wellbrook is highly praised and I
was
extremly unimpressed with it's performance. Right or Wrong I call it
like I see it.

One variation I am going to try and build of Dallas' active dipole is
to build it
like a VHF coaxial dipole. The lower element will be an outer sleeve
over a
center support member. It would be very easy to hide in plain sight,
and with
some care in routing the coax, you might get away with calling it a
bird feeder.
Hard to put into words, but I ought to be very doable.

The R8B is a SWEET receiver. I got in trade for some special advice
that saved
a former SWL a bundle of money on his custom designed home theater
system
where he was going to get ripped off for several K of wasted money for
a sloppy
design with inferrior equipement. 95% of the time anything I hear on
the R8B I
can hear on my R2000. But that other 5% of the time is heaven!

Terry

wrote:
For bang for the buck the North Country Active antenna works pretty
well.
According to Yodar from RHFs Yahoo antenna group they will assemble
it for you. It is small enough to hide and will work much better then
the
PA0RDT. In my opinnion, based on the tests that I have made, the
PA0RDT
simply doesn't have enough antenna to overcomm the internal noise in
the
active electronics. The North country would be my first choice if I
couldn't
get a Lankford, or it's near clone the AMRAD.

Thanks for reminding me of the North Country! I had seen Yodar's note
about them building him one, but had forgotten about it. I think I'd
prefer the AMRAD or Dallas' design if the builder can do, but it's
another option and only a little over $100 at that. While poking
around the North Country site after reading your message, I came across
this page in their tech section:

http://www.northcountryradio.com/Articles/actant3.htm

It is a clear, concise explanation of how and why to use a "Bryant type
choke" and a seperate ground rod on an active antenna to knock down
noise on the shield. The only critical comment I would have is they
never actually call the noise common mode noise. You could save some
typing by referring someone there :-)

One variation I am going to try and build of Dallas' active dipole is
to build it
like a VHF coaxial dipole. The lower element will be an outer sleeve
over a
center support member. It would be very easy to hide in plain sight,
and with
some care in routing the coax, you might get away with calling it a
bird feeder.
Hard to put into words, but I ought to be very doable.

My problem is that since the Homeowners Association does all lawn and
driveway maintenance, free standing things that require any extra
effort to mow or trim around are frowned upon. Bird feeders need to be
attached to home or deck.
As time goes on, and trees grow a bit, something in a tree with buried
coax may be possible.

The R8B is a SWEET receiver. 95% of the time anything I hear on
the R8B I
can hear on my R2000. But that other 5% of the time is heaven!

Yeah, right now it's on my "future budget list"...... How do you rate
its' synchronous detector vs what you have seen?

Bob

In article .com,
wrote:


Bob wrote:
Terry -

Have you found any specific wall warts that you would consider
reasonably electrically quiet?

Thanks again, Bob

Even with wall warts that appear to be identical, the RFI varies a
great deal. I go to the local good will store once every couple of
weeks with my trusty DX398 and check out their constantly changing
stock for quite ones. Stay away from switch mode wall warts. They are
very light weight and are RFI demons.

Very good observation. The supplies that are linear have transformers,
which have some weight to them are heaver than the more efficient
switching but RF noisy type.

--
Telamon
Ventura, California

Some of those cheap no good wall warts will mess up and blow out your
equipment.I have seen it happen before.
cuhulin