Primax wrote:
Hi all,
I presently use a Realstic DX302, DX-394, DX160, DX200.
I am thinking of buying a FRG-7.
Can you tell me please if this is worth buying or not?
It is in good condition and fully working.

I use a 50` end fed long wire.

TIA,

Mike.

It's like a "real" version of the DX-302, in that it actually works very
well.

In article ,
says...
Primax wrote:
Hi all,
I presently use a Realstic DX302, DX-394, DX160, DX200.
I am thinking of buying a FRG-7.
Can you tell me please if this is worth buying or not?
It is in good condition and fully working.

I use a 50` end fed long wire.

TIA,

Mike.

It's like a "real" version of the DX-302, in that it actually works very
well.


Perfectly put!

BDK
Former DX302 and FRG 7, 7000, 7700, 8800 owner.

Properly aligned and with the audio mod, a DX-302 is a perfectly acceptable
radio. Very good, actually.


"dave" wrote in message
...
Primax wrote:
Hi all,
I presently use a Realstic DX302, DX-394, DX160, DX200.
I am thinking of buying a FRG-7.
Can you tell me please if this is worth buying or not?
It is in good condition and fully working.

I use a 50` end fed long wire.

TIA,

Mike.

It's like a "real" version of the DX-302, in that it actually works very
well.

Properly aligned and with the audio mod, a DX-302 is a perfectly acceptable
radio. Very good, actually.


"dave" wrote in message
...
Primax wrote:
Hi all,
I presently use a Realstic DX302, DX-394, DX160, DX200.
I am thinking of buying a FRG-7.
Can you tell me please if this is worth buying or not?
It is in good condition and fully working.

I use a 50` end fed long wire.

TIA,

Mike.

It's like a "real" version of the DX-302, in that it actually works very
well.

Properly aligned and with the audio mod, a DX-302 is a perfectly acceptable
radio. Very good, actually.


"dave" wrote in message
...
Primax wrote:
Hi all,
I presently use a Realstic DX302, DX-394, DX160, DX200.
I am thinking of buying a FRG-7.
Can you tell me please if this is worth buying or not?
It is in good condition and fully working.

I use a 50` end fed long wire.

TIA,

Mike.

It's like a "real" version of the DX-302, in that it actually works very
well.

It don't matter any more, I just won myself a FRG8800
With extras.

In great condition and fully working.

Mike.

--
Lets all stop killing each other
Lets all live in peace.

In article ,
says...
Properly aligned and with the audio mod, a DX-302 is a perfectly acceptable
radio. Very good, actually.

There's "acceptable" and there's "very good", entirely different things.
A DX-302 modded and aligned is on the low end of "acceptable" at best.
It's acceptable as a beginner's radio, that's as much credit as I'm
willing to give it.

BDK



"dave" wrote in message
...
Primax wrote:
Hi all,
I presently use a Realstic DX302, DX-394, DX160, DX200.
I am thinking of buying a FRG-7.
Can you tell me please if this is worth buying or not?
It is in good condition and fully working.

I use a 50` end fed long wire.

TIA,

Mike.

It's like a "real" version of the DX-302, in that it actually works very
well.

In article , swift240
@gmail.com says...
It don't matter any more, I just won myself a FRG8800
With extras.

In great condition and fully working.

Mike.



I had one for many years, only real complaints I had was the filters
were too wide, and it would lock up once in a while, and the batteries
had to be removed to reset everything.

I had a lot of fun with it.

BDK

Unrevealed Source wrote:
Properly aligned and with the audio mod, a DX-302 is a perfectly acceptable
radio. Very good, actually.


"dave" wrote in message
...
Primax wrote:
Hi all,
I presently use a Realstic DX302, DX-394, DX160, DX200.
I am thinking of buying a FRG-7.
Can you tell me please if this is worth buying or not?
It is in good condition and fully working.

I use a 50` end fed long wire.

TIA,

Mike.
It's like a "real" version of the DX-302, in that it actually works very
well.


I had one prior to the www. It sounded muffled at best and leaked a lot
of spurs.

The FRG-7 is a good radio out of the box, but it is even better after two
mods.
The first one is bypassing the signal chain that has the MW attenuator.
Simple rerouting of the input signal to the unused contact of the
preselector switch that is associated with the MW range does the trick.
After that, you can use either the 50 Ohm antenna input or the high Z jack.
The MW antenna jack is no longer used.
The second mod is to bump up the gain in the 455kHz I.F. strip a bit. Yaesu
uses a partially bypassed common emtiier configuration for the two 455kHz
I.F. amplifiers. This consists of using two series resistors for the emitter
return instead of only a single resistor. The bottom (cold) resistor is the
only one that is bypassed. The reason for this is to introduce some negative
feedback for stability. Since this device is running at such low gain in the
first place, instability isn't really a factor. They may have run into gain
variations from batch to batch, so this was one way of providing consistant
gain.
If you want extra gain, simply connect the bypass capacitor from emitter to
ground. This puts the emitter at AC ground...........the gain equation now
changes. Instead of the gain being Rc / Re, is now becomes Rc / Re'.
A simple way to calculate Re' is by using the formula [25mV / Ie]. This is
usually 25 Ohms or less, depending on the emitter current that the device is
running at. A good way to get some extra gain without disturbing the DC
operating point of the device. Thermal stability is unaffected.
Gain of the receiver is similar to an Icom R-75 or a Drake R7 after this
mod, and MW sensitivity is as good as the best out there.

Pete