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#11
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www.devilfinder.com How to build a loop antenna for shortwave radio
The dead chickens wont help, cook them and eat them. cuhulin |
#12
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In article ,
"Michael" wrote: "Telamon" wrote in message ... In article , "Michael" wrote: "Telamon" wrote in message . .. Where he lives a common mode antenna is most likely the worst choice for an antenna anyway. What antenna would you recommend ??? Besides dead poultry. People that meet RHF have a tendency to slap him over the head with a dead chicken in case you were wondering where that came from. Anything not a common mode antenna such as a random/long wire. Make a dipole or a loop antenna. Those antennas don't need a ground to operate. I already have a di-pole. A 102' G5RV on my roof. I'm building a second antenna because my current 150' long wire has fallen apart on the roof after being up there for three years. I have an ICE-180 balun that I can take off of that mess, so I figured I'd use that in the construction of something that can make use of it, like an inverted L. So far I just spent money on a new 6' ground rod and a 20 buck spool of antenna wire. Under 50 bucks total. Why the hell wont I get an effective ground here with a six foot ground rod ??? I always thought the ground here in this area had great conductivity. That is why there are so many MW transmitters here. You should get a good ground with a 6 foot rod. I was commenting on the retard from the San Francisco area spouting advise about the rod for different soil conditions than what you have. Chances are for you the water table is about 2 or 3 feet below ground. Chances are you have 4 to 6 inches of top soil then several feet of clay. You were complaining about area noise before this and a common mode antenna would be the worst way to go if you are surrounded by neighbors with noise makers. BTW... My G5RV works very well from 5 megahertz to 10 megahertz. Is isn't so good below of above that. My 150' long wire was great for anything above 10 megahertz. Unbelievably, it was also very good for 3 megahertz to 4 megahertz. I have no idea why. The way I had that one grounded was, I'm sure, a poor way to do it. I have a 12 gauge wire going from the radio, up on the roof to the ICE-180 balun's ground, and then back down the house to a ground rod in the earth. The current ground rod is only 3' long iron bar. Don't ask me how, but it worked. Any time you have a wire in the air of an electrically significant length then you do not have a ground wire. What you have is a counter poise and its electrical length will sum with the characteristics of the Random/Long-wire that is the other part of the antenna. The length is the important consideration not the diameter. You have made the investment so go and install the inverted L. Keep it as far from your house and the neighbors as you possibly can. If you like the performance, and the coax is traveling across the ground to get to your house, you can bury it in a trench. You could protect the coax in the ground with PVC pipe or buy the type of coax that is designed to be put in the ground. There is no point in running another ground wire from your radio to the antenna ground point. The coax shield is that connection. You would want a separate ground for the antenna ground at the ICE BALUN because the ground at the radio is from the mains and is contaminated with electrical noise from other devices. The ICE BALUN is really an UNUN in this case. Unbalanced antenna to Unbalanced transmission line. -- Telamon Ventura, California |
#13
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#14
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![]() "Telamon" wrote in message ... In article , "Michael" wrote: "Telamon" wrote in message ... In article , "Michael" wrote: "Telamon" wrote in message . .. Where he lives a common mode antenna is most likely the worst choice for an antenna anyway. What antenna would you recommend ??? Besides dead poultry. People that meet RHF have a tendency to slap him over the head with a dead chicken in case you were wondering where that came from. Anything not a common mode antenna such as a random/long wire. Make a dipole or a loop antenna. Those antennas don't need a ground to operate. I already have a di-pole. A 102' G5RV on my roof. I'm building a second antenna because my current 150' long wire has fallen apart on the roof after being up there for three years. I have an ICE-180 balun that I can take off of that mess, so I figured I'd use that in the construction of something that can make use of it, like an inverted L. So far I just spent money on a new 6' ground rod and a 20 buck spool of antenna wire. Under 50 bucks total. Why the hell wont I get an effective ground here with a six foot ground rod ??? I always thought the ground here in this area had great conductivity. That is why there are so many MW transmitters here. You should get a good ground with a 6 foot rod. I was commenting on the retard from the San Francisco area spouting advise about the rod for different soil conditions than what you have. Chances are for you the water table is about 2 or 3 feet below ground. Chances are you have 4 to 6 inches of top soil then several feet of clay. You were complaining about area noise before this and a common mode antenna would be the worst way to go if you are surrounded by neighbors with noise makers. BTW... My G5RV works very well from 5 megahertz to 10 megahertz. Is isn't so good below of above that. My 150' long wire was great for anything above 10 megahertz. Unbelievably, it was also very good for 3 megahertz to 4 megahertz. I have no idea why. The way I had that one grounded was, I'm sure, a poor way to do it. I have a 12 gauge wire going from the radio, up on the roof to the ICE-180 balun's ground, and then back down the house to a ground rod in the earth. The current ground rod is only 3' long iron bar. Don't ask me how, but it worked. Any time you have a wire in the air of an electrically significant length then you do not have a ground wire. What you have is a counter poise and its electrical length will sum with the characteristics of the Random/Long-wire that is the other part of the antenna. The length is the important consideration not the diameter. You have made the investment so go and install the inverted L. Keep it as far from your house and the neighbors as you possibly can. If you like the performance, and the coax is traveling across the ground to get to your house, you can bury it in a trench. You could protect the coax in the ground with PVC pipe or buy the type of coax that is designed to be put in the ground. There is no point in running another ground wire from your radio to the antenna ground point. The coax shield is that connection. You would want a separate ground for the antenna ground at the ICE BALUN because the ground at the radio is from the mains and is contaminated with electrical noise from other devices. The ICE BALUN is really an UNUN in this case. Unbalanced antenna to Unbalanced transmission line. For the inverted L, what tap on the the ICE-180 should I use ??? 300, 450, 600 or 800 Michael |
#15
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![]() "Telamon" wrote in message ... In article , "Michael" wrote: "Telamon" wrote in message ... In article , "Michael" wrote: "Telamon" wrote in message . .. Where he lives a common mode antenna is most likely the worst choice for an antenna anyway. What antenna would you recommend ??? Besides dead poultry. People that meet RHF have a tendency to slap him over the head with a dead chicken in case you were wondering where that came from. Anything not a common mode antenna such as a random/long wire. Make a dipole or a loop antenna. Those antennas don't need a ground to operate. I already have a di-pole. A 102' G5RV on my roof. I'm building a second antenna because my current 150' long wire has fallen apart on the roof after being up there for three years. I have an ICE-180 balun that I can take off of that mess, so I figured I'd use that in the construction of something that can make use of it, like an inverted L. So far I just spent money on a new 6' ground rod and a 20 buck spool of antenna wire. Under 50 bucks total. Why the hell wont I get an effective ground here with a six foot ground rod ??? I always thought the ground here in this area had great conductivity. That is why there are so many MW transmitters here. You should get a good ground with a 6 foot rod. I was commenting on the retard from the San Francisco area spouting advise about the rod for different soil conditions than what you have. Chances are for you the water table is about 2 or 3 feet below ground. Chances are you have 4 to 6 inches of top soil then several feet of clay. You were complaining about area noise before this and a common mode antenna would be the worst way to go if you are surrounded by neighbors with noise makers. BTW... My G5RV works very well from 5 megahertz to 10 megahertz. Is isn't so good below of above that. My 150' long wire was great for anything above 10 megahertz. Unbelievably, it was also very good for 3 megahertz to 4 megahertz. I have no idea why. The way I had that one grounded was, I'm sure, a poor way to do it. I have a 12 gauge wire going from the radio, up on the roof to the ICE-180 balun's ground, and then back down the house to a ground rod in the earth. The current ground rod is only 3' long iron bar. Don't ask me how, but it worked. Any time you have a wire in the air of an electrically significant length then you do not have a ground wire. What you have is a counter poise and its electrical length will sum with the characteristics of the Random/Long-wire that is the other part of the antenna. The length is the important consideration not the diameter. You have made the investment so go and install the inverted L. Keep it as far from your house and the neighbors as you possibly can. If you like the performance, and the coax is traveling across the ground to get to your house, you can bury it in a trench. You could protect the coax in the ground with PVC pipe or buy the type of coax that is designed to be put in the ground. There is no point in running another ground wire from your radio to the antenna ground point. The coax shield is that connection. You would want a separate ground for the antenna ground at the ICE BALUN because the ground at the radio is from the mains and is contaminated with electrical noise from other devices. You know... That is probably why my ill conceived long wire was so noisy. It got a lot of signal, but a lot of noise too. I'm betting the the Inverted L with it's own ground will now be pretty decent as far as noise goes. As for the radio, I'm going to ground it in the shack to a radiator. Or, i can forgoe that and ground the antenna/receiver switch to the radiator instead. Michael |
#16
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![]() Michael wrote: "Telamon" wrote in message ... In article , "Michael" wrote: "Telamon" wrote in message ... In article , "Michael" wrote: "Telamon" wrote in message . .. Where he lives a common mode antenna is most likely the worst choice for an antenna anyway. What antenna would you recommend ??? Besides dead poultry. People that meet RHF have a tendency to slap him over the head with a dead chicken in case you were wondering where that came from. Anything not a common mode antenna such as a random/long wire. Make a dipole or a loop antenna. Those antennas don't need a ground to operate. I already have a di-pole. A 102' G5RV on my roof. I'm building a second antenna because my current 150' long wire has fallen apart on the roof after being up there for three years. I have an ICE-180 balun that I can take off of that mess, so I figured I'd use that in the construction of something that can make use of it, like an inverted L. So far I just spent money on a new 6' ground rod and a 20 buck spool of antenna wire. Under 50 bucks total. Why the hell wont I get an effective ground here with a six foot ground rod ??? I always thought the ground here in this area had great conductivity. That is why there are so many MW transmitters here. You should get a good ground with a 6 foot rod. I was commenting on the retard from the San Francisco area spouting advise about the rod for different soil conditions than what you have. Chances are for you the water table is about 2 or 3 feet below ground. Chances are you have 4 to 6 inches of top soil then several feet of clay. You were complaining about area noise before this and a common mode antenna would be the worst way to go if you are surrounded by neighbors with noise makers. BTW... My G5RV works very well from 5 megahertz to 10 megahertz. Is isn't so good below of above that. My 150' long wire was great for anything above 10 megahertz. Unbelievably, it was also very good for 3 megahertz to 4 megahertz. I have no idea why. The way I had that one grounded was, I'm sure, a poor way to do it. I have a 12 gauge wire going from the radio, up on the roof to the ICE-180 balun's ground, and then back down the house to a ground rod in the earth. The current ground rod is only 3' long iron bar. Don't ask me how, but it worked. Any time you have a wire in the air of an electrically significant length then you do not have a ground wire. What you have is a counter poise and its electrical length will sum with the characteristics of the Random/Long-wire that is the other part of the antenna. The length is the important consideration not the diameter. You have made the investment so go and install the inverted L. Keep it as far from your house and the neighbors as you possibly can. If you like the performance, and the coax is traveling across the ground to get to your house, you can bury it in a trench. You could protect the coax in the ground with PVC pipe or buy the type of coax that is designed to be put in the ground. There is no point in running another ground wire from your radio to the antenna ground point. The coax shield is that connection. You would want a separate ground for the antenna ground at the ICE BALUN because the ground at the radio is from the mains and is contaminated with electrical noise from other devices. The ICE BALUN is really an UNUN in this case. Unbalanced antenna to Unbalanced transmission line. For the inverted L, what tap on the the ICE-180 should I use ??? 300, 450, 600 or 800 Off the top of my pointed head, if you'd want to convert the wire to 50 Ohms I'd go with the 450 Ohm tap. However, not knowing the true design of the ICE-180, it may be to your benefit to experiment with the other taps. In fact, with most any particular design, whether it be an antenna or a matching transformer/balun, it always pays to experiment, because your particular location/circumstances might be different from that of others. dxAce Michigan USA Michael |
#17
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In article ,
"Michael" wrote: "Telamon" wrote in message ... In article , "Michael" wrote: "Telamon" wrote in message . .. In article , "Michael" wrote: "Telamon" wrote in message et. .. Where he lives a common mode antenna is most likely the worst choice for an antenna anyway. What antenna would you recommend ??? Besides dead poultry. People that meet RHF have a tendency to slap him over the head with a dead chicken in case you were wondering where that came from. Anything not a common mode antenna such as a random/long wire. Make a dipole or a loop antenna. Those antennas don't need a ground to operate. I already have a di-pole. A 102' G5RV on my roof. I'm building a second antenna because my current 150' long wire has fallen apart on the roof after being up there for three years. I have an ICE-180 balun that I can take off of that mess, so I figured I'd use that in the construction of something that can make use of it, like an inverted L. So far I just spent money on a new 6' ground rod and a 20 buck spool of antenna wire. Under 50 bucks total. Why the hell wont I get an effective ground here with a six foot ground rod ??? I always thought the ground here in this area had great conductivity. That is why there are so many MW transmitters here. You should get a good ground with a 6 foot rod. I was commenting on the retard from the San Francisco area spouting advise about the rod for different soil conditions than what you have. Chances are for you the water table is about 2 or 3 feet below ground. Chances are you have 4 to 6 inches of top soil then several feet of clay. You were complaining about area noise before this and a common mode antenna would be the worst way to go if you are surrounded by neighbors with noise makers. BTW... My G5RV works very well from 5 megahertz to 10 megahertz. Is isn't so good below of above that. My 150' long wire was great for anything above 10 megahertz. Unbelievably, it was also very good for 3 megahertz to 4 megahertz. I have no idea why. The way I had that one grounded was, I'm sure, a poor way to do it. I have a 12 gauge wire going from the radio, up on the roof to the ICE-180 balun's ground, and then back down the house to a ground rod in the earth. The current ground rod is only 3' long iron bar. Don't ask me how, but it worked. Any time you have a wire in the air of an electrically significant length then you do not have a ground wire. What you have is a counter poise and its electrical length will sum with the characteristics of the Random/Long-wire that is the other part of the antenna. The length is the important consideration not the diameter. You have made the investment so go and install the inverted L. Keep it as far from your house and the neighbors as you possibly can. If you like the performance, and the coax is traveling across the ground to get to your house, you can bury it in a trench. You could protect the coax in the ground with PVC pipe or buy the type of coax that is designed to be put in the ground. There is no point in running another ground wire from your radio to the antenna ground point. The coax shield is that connection. You would want a separate ground for the antenna ground at the ICE BALUN because the ground at the radio is from the mains and is contaminated with electrical noise from other devices. The ICE BALUN is really an UNUN in this case. Unbalanced antenna to Unbalanced transmission line. For the inverted L, what tap on the the ICE-180 should I use ??? 300, 450, 600 or 800 I would expect the lowest value to work the best. You could easily experiment with this setting. In addition I would try a direct connection to the coax. If that works the best then I would make a 1:1 toroid transformer for it. Here the antenna and ground would be connected to one winding and the coax to the other winding with no direct connection between the two windings. -- Telamon Ventura, California |
#18
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In article ,
"Michael" wrote: "Telamon" wrote in message ... In article , "Michael" wrote: "Telamon" wrote in message . .. In article , "Michael" wrote: "Telamon" wrote in message et. .. Where he lives a common mode antenna is most likely the worst choice for an antenna anyway. What antenna would you recommend ??? Besides dead poultry. People that meet RHF have a tendency to slap him over the head with a dead chicken in case you were wondering where that came from. Anything not a common mode antenna such as a random/long wire. Make a dipole or a loop antenna. Those antennas don't need a ground to operate. I already have a di-pole. A 102' G5RV on my roof. I'm building a second antenna because my current 150' long wire has fallen apart on the roof after being up there for three years. I have an ICE-180 balun that I can take off of that mess, so I figured I'd use that in the construction of something that can make use of it, like an inverted L. So far I just spent money on a new 6' ground rod and a 20 buck spool of antenna wire. Under 50 bucks total. Why the hell wont I get an effective ground here with a six foot ground rod ??? I always thought the ground here in this area had great conductivity. That is why there are so many MW transmitters here. You should get a good ground with a 6 foot rod. I was commenting on the retard from the San Francisco area spouting advise about the rod for different soil conditions than what you have. Chances are for you the water table is about 2 or 3 feet below ground. Chances are you have 4 to 6 inches of top soil then several feet of clay. You were complaining about area noise before this and a common mode antenna would be the worst way to go if you are surrounded by neighbors with noise makers. BTW... My G5RV works very well from 5 megahertz to 10 megahertz. Is isn't so good below of above that. My 150' long wire was great for anything above 10 megahertz. Unbelievably, it was also very good for 3 megahertz to 4 megahertz. I have no idea why. The way I had that one grounded was, I'm sure, a poor way to do it. I have a 12 gauge wire going from the radio, up on the roof to the ICE-180 balun's ground, and then back down the house to a ground rod in the earth. The current ground rod is only 3' long iron bar. Don't ask me how, but it worked. Any time you have a wire in the air of an electrically significant length then you do not have a ground wire. What you have is a counter poise and its electrical length will sum with the characteristics of the Random/Long-wire that is the other part of the antenna. The length is the important consideration not the diameter. You have made the investment so go and install the inverted L. Keep it as far from your house and the neighbors as you possibly can. If you like the performance, and the coax is traveling across the ground to get to your house, you can bury it in a trench. You could protect the coax in the ground with PVC pipe or buy the type of coax that is designed to be put in the ground. There is no point in running another ground wire from your radio to the antenna ground point. The coax shield is that connection. You would want a separate ground for the antenna ground at the ICE BALUN because the ground at the radio is from the mains and is contaminated with electrical noise from other devices. You know... That is probably why my ill conceived long wire was so noisy. It got a lot of signal, but a lot of noise too. I'm betting the the Inverted L with it's own ground will now be pretty decent as far as noise goes. That's the theory. As for the radio, I'm going to ground it in the shack to a radiator. Or, i can forgoe that and ground the antenna/receiver switch to the radiator instead. The bast you can do for the radio if you have modern 3 wire outlets is to get a filtered power conditioning strip to plug the radio into. -- Telamon Ventura, California |
#19
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![]() "Telamon" wrote in message ... In article , "Michael" wrote: "Telamon" wrote in message ... In article , "Michael" wrote: "Telamon" wrote in message . .. In article , "Michael" wrote: "Telamon" wrote in message et. .. Where he lives a common mode antenna is most likely the worst choice for an antenna anyway. What antenna would you recommend ??? Besides dead poultry. People that meet RHF have a tendency to slap him over the head with a dead chicken in case you were wondering where that came from. Anything not a common mode antenna such as a random/long wire. Make a dipole or a loop antenna. Those antennas don't need a ground to operate. I already have a di-pole. A 102' G5RV on my roof. I'm building a second antenna because my current 150' long wire has fallen apart on the roof after being up there for three years. I have an ICE-180 balun that I can take off of that mess, so I figured I'd use that in the construction of something that can make use of it, like an inverted L. So far I just spent money on a new 6' ground rod and a 20 buck spool of antenna wire. Under 50 bucks total. Why the hell wont I get an effective ground here with a six foot ground rod ??? I always thought the ground here in this area had great conductivity. That is why there are so many MW transmitters here. You should get a good ground with a 6 foot rod. I was commenting on the retard from the San Francisco area spouting advise about the rod for different soil conditions than what you have. Chances are for you the water table is about 2 or 3 feet below ground. Chances are you have 4 to 6 inches of top soil then several feet of clay. You were complaining about area noise before this and a common mode antenna would be the worst way to go if you are surrounded by neighbors with noise makers. BTW... My G5RV works very well from 5 megahertz to 10 megahertz. Is isn't so good below of above that. My 150' long wire was great for anything above 10 megahertz. Unbelievably, it was also very good for 3 megahertz to 4 megahertz. I have no idea why. The way I had that one grounded was, I'm sure, a poor way to do it. I have a 12 gauge wire going from the radio, up on the roof to the ICE-180 balun's ground, and then back down the house to a ground rod in the earth. The current ground rod is only 3' long iron bar. Don't ask me how, but it worked. Any time you have a wire in the air of an electrically significant length then you do not have a ground wire. What you have is a counter poise and its electrical length will sum with the characteristics of the Random/Long-wire that is the other part of the antenna. The length is the important consideration not the diameter. You have made the investment so go and install the inverted L. Keep it as far from your house and the neighbors as you possibly can. If you like the performance, and the coax is traveling across the ground to get to your house, you can bury it in a trench. You could protect the coax in the ground with PVC pipe or buy the type of coax that is designed to be put in the ground. There is no point in running another ground wire from your radio to the antenna ground point. The coax shield is that connection. You would want a separate ground for the antenna ground at the ICE BALUN because the ground at the radio is from the mains and is contaminated with electrical noise from other devices. You know... That is probably why my ill conceived long wire was so noisy. It got a lot of signal, but a lot of noise too. I'm betting the the Inverted L with it's own ground will now be pretty decent as far as noise goes. That's the theory. As for the radio, I'm going to ground it in the shack to a radiator. Or, i can forgoe that and ground the antenna/receiver switch to the radiator instead. The bast you can do for the radio if you have modern 3 wire outlets is to get a filtered power conditioning strip to plug the radio into. Can you send me a link to such a stip ??? Telamon Ventura, California |
#20
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In article ,
"Michael" wrote: "Telamon" wrote in message ... In article , "Michael" wrote: "Telamon" wrote in message . .. In article , "Michael" wrote: "Telamon" wrote in message et. .. In article , "Michael" wrote: "Telamon" wrote in message y.n et. .. Where he lives a common mode antenna is most likely the worst choice for an antenna anyway. What antenna would you recommend ??? Besides dead poultry. People that meet RHF have a tendency to slap him over the head with a dead chicken in case you were wondering where that came from. Anything not a common mode antenna such as a random/long wire. Make a dipole or a loop antenna. Those antennas don't need a ground to operate. I already have a di-pole. A 102' G5RV on my roof. I'm building a second antenna because my current 150' long wire has fallen apart on the roof after being up there for three years. I have an ICE-180 balun that I can take off of that mess, so I figured I'd use that in the construction of something that can make use of it, like an inverted L. So far I just spent money on a new 6' ground rod and a 20 buck spool of antenna wire. Under 50 bucks total. Why the hell wont I get an effective ground here with a six foot ground rod ??? I always thought the ground here in this area had great conductivity. That is why there are so many MW transmitters here. You should get a good ground with a 6 foot rod. I was commenting on the retard from the San Francisco area spouting advise about the rod for different soil conditions than what you have. Chances are for you the water table is about 2 or 3 feet below ground. Chances are you have 4 to 6 inches of top soil then several feet of clay. You were complaining about area noise before this and a common mode antenna would be the worst way to go if you are surrounded by neighbors with noise makers. BTW... My G5RV works very well from 5 megahertz to 10 megahertz. Is isn't so good below of above that. My 150' long wire was great for anything above 10 megahertz. Unbelievably, it was also very good for 3 megahertz to 4 megahertz. I have no idea why. The way I had that one grounded was, I'm sure, a poor way to do it. I have a 12 gauge wire going from the radio, up on the roof to the ICE-180 balun's ground, and then back down the house to a ground rod in the earth. The current ground rod is only 3' long iron bar. Don't ask me how, but it worked. Any time you have a wire in the air of an electrically significant length then you do not have a ground wire. What you have is a counter poise and its electrical length will sum with the characteristics of the Random/Long-wire that is the other part of the antenna. The length is the important consideration not the diameter. You have made the investment so go and install the inverted L. Keep it as far from your house and the neighbors as you possibly can. If you like the performance, and the coax is traveling across the ground to get to your house, you can bury it in a trench. You could protect the coax in the ground with PVC pipe or buy the type of coax that is designed to be put in the ground. There is no point in running another ground wire from your radio to the antenna ground point. The coax shield is that connection. You would want a separate ground for the antenna ground at the ICE BALUN because the ground at the radio is from the mains and is contaminated with electrical noise from other devices. You know... That is probably why my ill conceived long wire was so noisy. It got a lot of signal, but a lot of noise too. I'm betting the the Inverted L with it's own ground will now be pretty decent as far as noise goes. That's the theory. As for the radio, I'm going to ground it in the shack to a radiator. Or, i can forgoe that and ground the antenna/receiver switch to the radiator instead. The bast you can do for the radio if you have modern 3 wire outlets is to get a filtered power conditioning strip to plug the radio into. Can you send me a link to such a stip ??? This is what I use. http://www.tripplite.com/products/product.cfm?productID=99 -- Telamon Ventura, California |
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