helmsman schrieb:

Had I known that Grundig sold ... the SATELLIT 800. ....

This "thing" is NOT a Grundig!
Grundig is out of buisines for years and years, sadly enough.
It's just companies playing games with "good old brand names".

odo

I've never run into an external power supply that didn't need some work to
optimize it for noise suppression. Even the AOR7030's power supply benefited
from a little extra work. For about 2 dollars worth of components, any power
supply can be made to be quiet. Connect .01uF caps across each of the
rectifier diodes, and bypass each leg of the power transformer's secondary
to ground with 1uF non-polarized caps to ground, and you are all set. Make
sure that you derate the 1uF units to at least twice the peak to peak output
voltage of the transformer.
There is no such thing as a good wall wart, from Radio Shack or anybody
else. Even the relatively expensive Power One frame supplies need these
add-ons. The reason that these manufacturers don't do this in the first
place is because they don't have to subject their units to stringent EMC
testing.
I hope this helps.

Pete

"Volker Tonn" wrote in message
...


helmsman schrieb:

Had I known that Grundig sold ... the SATELLIT 800. ....

This "thing" is NOT a Grundig!
Grundig is out of buisines for years and years, sadly enough.
It's just companies playing games with "good old brand names".

odo

Pete KE9OA wrote:

I've never run into an external power supply that didn't need some work to
optimize it for noise suppression. Even the AOR7030's power supply benefited
from a little extra work. For about 2 dollars worth of components, any power
supply can be made to be quiet. Connect .01uF caps across each of the
rectifier diodes, and bypass each leg of the power transformer's secondary
to ground with 1uF non-polarized caps to ground, and you are all set. Make
sure that you derate the 1uF units to at least twice the peak to peak output
voltage of the transformer.
There is no such thing as a good wall wart, from Radio Shack or anybody
else. Even the relatively expensive Power One frame supplies need these
add-ons. The reason that these manufacturers don't do this in the first
place is because they don't have to subject their units to stringent EMC
testing.
I hope this helps.

Pete,

What is your preferred method for cutting the wall wart open?


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How much current does SAT 800 draw? The AC ripple, buzzing (
60 Hz 2nd harmonic), RFI from the power grid, computer generated hash
may be so severe at times that NO 110V adapter can solve the problem.
Pure DC is found only in batteries... Try an external battery (like an
alarm uses with a dropping resistor or a 12 light bulb ) .

Those things are pretty hard to open up............I had the roughest time
with the one for my FGR100, but if you are careful, a utility razor can do
the job. Gluing it back together is another thing. Probably, the safest
adhesive is epoxy. There are better agents (Methylene Chloride), but these
are very dangerous.

Pete


"starman" wrote in message
...
Pete KE9OA wrote:

I've never run into an external power supply that didn't need some work
to
optimize it for noise suppression. Even the AOR7030's power supply
benefited
from a little extra work. For about 2 dollars worth of components, any
power
supply can be made to be quiet. Connect .01uF caps across each of the
rectifier diodes, and bypass each leg of the power transformer's
secondary
to ground with 1uF non-polarized caps to ground, and you are all set.
Make
sure that you derate the 1uF units to at least twice the peak to peak
output
voltage of the transformer.
There is no such thing as a good wall wart, from Radio Shack or anybody
else. Even the relatively expensive Power One frame supplies need these
add-ons. The reason that these manufacturers don't do this in the first
place is because they don't have to subject their units to stringent EMC
testing.
I hope this helps.

Pete,

What is your preferred method for cutting the wall wart open?


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I agree......................I only use it outdoors. A chemist friend of
mine once told me that if it get on your skin, it can diffuse into your body
and dissolve the fatty tissues, such as you liver, etc. The local Ace
hardware store discontinued that item because of the inherent dangers. I
think that about the only way you can buy it nowadays is through a company
such as Cope Plastics, and that would be by the quart, at the very minimum.
A very bad chemical, but the best thing that I have run into for fusing
plexiglass. Still, I wouldn't recommend it to anybody that didn't have
experience in handling this type of chemical.
As an aside, Methylene Chloride is one of the active ingredients in Zip
Strip, the paint and varnish stripper. Zip strip is handy for stripping the
photo resist from printed circuit boards.

Pete

"helmsman" wrote in message
...
"Pete KE9OA" wrote:

Those things are pretty hard to open up............I had the roughest
time
with the one for my FGR100, but if you are careful, a utility razor can
do
the job. Gluing it back together is another thing. Probably, the safest
adhesive is epoxy. There are better agents (Methylene Chloride), but
these
are very dangerous.

Pete


"starman" wrote in message
...
Pete KE9OA wrote:

I've never run into an external power supply that didn't need some
work
to
optimize it for noise suppression. Even the AOR7030's power supply
benefited
from a little extra work. For about 2 dollars worth of components,
any
power
supply can be made to be quiet. Connect .01uF caps across each of the
rectifier diodes, and bypass each leg of the power transformer's
secondary
to ground with 1uF non-polarized caps to ground, and you are all set.
Make
sure that you derate the 1uF units to at least twice the peak to peak
output
voltage of the transformer.
There is no such thing as a good wall wart, from Radio Shack or
anybody
else. Even the relatively expensive Power One frame supplies need
these
add-ons. The reason that these manufacturers don't do this in the
first
place is because they don't have to subject their units to stringent
EMC
testing.
I hope this helps.

Pete,

What is your preferred method for cutting the wall wart open?


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-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----


Methylene Chloride is listed as a Poison. And is an inhalation hazard
that is heavier than air. It can KILL you.
Grundig has gotten in touch with me, we shall see what happens.

Methylene chloride was used as a cleaning agent where I work; the
employees used it in a fume hood, wore gloves, goggles and a
respirator and werere given medical exams annually. Truly nasy stuff
- thankfully we replaced it with Hexane ....... no kidding, I couldn't
make this stuff up!
On Fri, 20 Feb 2004 05:46:31 GMT, "Pete KE9OA"
wrote:

I agree......................I only use it outdoors. A chemist friend of
mine once told me that if it get on your skin, it can diffuse into your body
and dissolve the fatty tissues, such as you liver, etc. The local Ace
hardware store discontinued that item because of the inherent dangers. I
think that about the only way you can buy it nowadays is through a company
such as Cope Plastics, and that would be by the quart, at the very minimum.
A very bad chemical, but the best thing that I have run into for fusing
plexiglass. Still, I wouldn't recommend it to anybody that didn't have
experience in handling this type of chemical.
As an aside, Methylene Chloride is one of the active ingredients in Zip
Strip, the paint and varnish stripper. Zip strip is handy for stripping the
photo resist from printed circuit boards.

Pete

"helmsman" wrote in message
.. .
"Pete KE9OA" wrote:

Those things are pretty hard to open up............I had the roughest
time
with the one for my FGR100, but if you are careful, a utility razor can
do
the job. Gluing it back together is another thing. Probably, the safest
adhesive is epoxy. There are better agents (Methylene Chloride), but
these
are very dangerous.

Pete


"starman" wrote in message
...
Pete KE9OA wrote:

I've never run into an external power supply that didn't need some
work
to
optimize it for noise suppression. Even the AOR7030's power supply
benefited
from a little extra work. For about 2 dollars worth of components,
any
power
supply can be made to be quiet. Connect .01uF caps across each of the
rectifier diodes, and bypass each leg of the power transformer's
secondary
to ground with 1uF non-polarized caps to ground, and you are all set.
Make
sure that you derate the 1uF units to at least twice the peak to peak
output
voltage of the transformer.
There is no such thing as a good wall wart, from Radio Shack or
anybody
else. Even the relatively expensive Power One frame supplies need
these
add-ons. The reason that these manufacturers don't do this in the
first
place is because they don't have to subject their units to stringent
EMC
testing.
I hope this helps.

Pete,

What is your preferred method for cutting the wall wart open?


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Methylene Chloride is listed as a Poison. And is an inhalation hazard
that is heavier than air. It can KILL you.
Grundig has gotten in touch with me, we shall see what happens.

ATTACK IT WITH a DREMEL microdisc abrasive disc (like what you saw on
their ad cut thru a
nail...there are heavier ones made of diamond impregnated metal

like a A baby air chisel

Franlkly tho wall warts are so cheap it's easier to replace it...but
it's almost BETTER to make a simple 3-terminal regulator in a minibox
Parts: diode-bridge chip
bias resistor or potentiometer
xfmr
filter capacitor
load resisitor
pcb substrate

yodar



Pete KE9OA wrote:
Those things are pretty hard to open up............I had the roughest time
with the one for my FGR100, but if you are careful, a utility razor can do
the job. Gluing it back together is another thing. Probably, the safest
adhesive is epoxy. There are better agents (Methylene Chloride), but these
are very dangerous.

Pete

Yodar wrote:

ATTACK IT WITH a DREMEL microdisc abrasive disc (like what you saw on
their ad cut thru a
nail...there are heavier ones made of diamond impregnated metal

like a A baby air chisel

That's how I cut open a wallwart too but be careful about not breathing
the plastic dust. Use a face filter mask.


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"Pete KE9OA" wrote in message
...
[..]
For about 2 dollars worth of components, any power
supply can be made to be quiet. Connect .01uF caps across each of the
rectifier diodes, and bypass each leg of the power transformer's secondary
to ground with 1uF non-polarized caps to ground, and you are all set.
[..]

I may well have this completely wrong, but wouldn't the 1uF caps from the
secondaries to ground introduce (common-mode) ripple on the positive and
negative outputs ?

Barry