Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#1
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Hi......just picked up a radio shack dx400.......I'm 80 ,and not too
smart,,,,,,need help in setting it |
#2
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Hi...thanks for the note ..will give it a try tnx TOM
wrote in message ... In article , says... Hi......just picked up a radio shack dx400.......I'm 80 ,and not too smart,,,,,,need help in setting it This is a link to the manual for a dx-440, not a dx-400 but should be close enough to help get you started. http://www.geocities.com/lectroncity/links.html You might also want to try yahoo groups.There used to be several for Sangean radios and their Radio Shack clones. |
#3
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
HI....will give it a try..thanks...TOM
Unrevealed Source wrote in message ... Same as Uniden CR-2021. Sorry I don't have a manual, but Google it. Very decent radio with external antenna, not so much off just the whip. "Tom Klesch" wrote in message ... Hi......just picked up a radio shack dx400.......I'm 80 ,and not too smart,,,,,,need help in setting it |
#4
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Dear Tom,
I own one of these receivers. I purchased it in 1983. Right out of the box it was somewhat disappointing. Its tuning is in 1, 3, 10, and 30 kHz steps. I do not know what the designers were thinking when they failed to include a 5 kHz step. The 30 kHz step is really useless and the 3 kHz step is of some use only for MW DXing the European MW fequencies. The radio "chugs" badly when tuning (as you've no doubt experienced). Its scanning is slow and noisy. My unit stops on a frequency 1 kHz above the actual transmitted one (e.g. 5976 instead of 5975 kHz). Its sound quality is mediocre as is its SSB reception. Adjacent-channel interference is annoying and selective-fading distortion, for which there is no remedy, is likewise annoying. All that said, it is a relatively decent portable radio and can still be used to good advantage. It is quite sensitive. Selectivity, as noted above, is disappointing but IF rejection appears to be quite good; it is the only triple-conversion portable receiver ever made, as far as I know. Do not try to use it with alkaline batteries; it is a "battery-eater." Buy some C-size NiMH batteries and a suitable charger (2 sets of batteries are ideal). I have a C. Crane QuickCharger which works very well. For the two AA computer-memory batteries, you can use alkaline ones; they last two or three years. I hope you have the AC cord. This is the way to use the radio if you are near an AC outlet. It was my first "digital" SW radio and I used it for many years until finally "retiring" it in 1998. It is the only SW radio I own for which I do not have the original box (it got lost in one of several moves). I do have the manual. The radio is simple enough to figure out that you don't really need it. F1 and F2 are memories for starting and stopping bandscanning. They are user programmable. For example if you wanted to scan the 31 meter band, you woud program 9300 kHz into F1 and 10100 into F2. When you press the scanning button, those are the frequencies that would be scanned. Manual scanning allows you to stop manually and Auto scanning has the radio stop on the first heard frequency of suitable strength (as I mentioned, on my unit, 1 kHz above the actual frequency). The radio also has in effect 12 memories for selected frequencies; there are 6 for AM (MW and SW combined) and 6 for FM. It's all pretty straightforward by today's standards, though fairly advanced for 1983. Note that the Uniden CR-2021 is exactly the same receiver save for the S-meter which is LED on the Uniden and analog (superior) on the Realistic. I remember when the Uniden was being closed-out for $79.95 but, frankly, I was so disappointed in the Realistic (for which I paid $249.95) that I didn't "bite." My main receiver remained my 1962 Lafayette HE-10 until I bought my Grundig Satellit 800 in 2000. I am presently on vacation and will not have access to the radio or manual until I get home (middle of September) but if you have any specific questions that "jog" my memory, I shall be happy to try to answer them. Note that I won't be monitoring this (or any) newsgroup consistently during my vacation; there are too many other things to do! Good luck with your radio. Joe |
#5
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Dear Tom,
One other very important characteristic I forgot to mention is the fact that batteries seem to have "grown" in size since 1983. When you put the C batteries in the (hidden) battery compartment, it becomes somewhat difficult to remove them, especially the last one of the six C-cells. (This was not the case in 1983; the batteries just slid out easily at that time.) I use a curved dental pick to reach into the compartment to get that last battery out. I also want to mention that the radio really benefits from an external antenna. Its whip, while adequate for casual listening or for travel, is not suitable for true DXing. (Be VERY careful with that whip; you can't replace it. I was able to "fix" mine, which became loose and "flopped" over, by taking it apart and replacing the washers, which I found at a local hardware store. The "fixing" was accompanied by some colorful language. I'm glad, however, that I was able to do this as there appears to be no replacement whip available.) Again, the best of luck. Joe |
#6
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Loctite helps on loose metal antenna screws and nuts threads after you
tighten the screws and nuts up real good first.But,dont get any Loctite on plastic!,it will melt the hell out of some plastics.I know this from personal experience when I sloshed some Loctite on the screws of the tail light lenses metal screws to a 1974 Ford/Mazda pickup truck I used to own.The next morning,the plastic tail light lenses were lying in the dirt. cuhulin |
#7
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]() |