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#1
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The lamp burned out and instead of replacing it with another blue/green
bulb I elected to use LEDs. I sanded the surface of the LED case to make the light it generated non-directional. I used three blue ones from Radio shack 276-316 in a line in place of the bulb and outside the meter case I used a resistor to limit the current. It looks pretty cool but very "blue." Now that I see the result I'm thinking that maybe white LEDs like a 276-320 would have been better choice as even the white LEDs look somewhat blueish to me. Anyone have any experiences using LEDs to replace bulbs on receivers? Right now I'm looking at the bluest meter on the west coast and the moving red needle looks almost iridescent. -- Telamon Ventura, California |
#2
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Telamon wrote:
The lamp burned out and instead of replacing it with another blue/green bulb I elected to use LEDs. I sanded the surface of the LED case to make the light it generated non-directional. I used three blue ones from Radio shack 276-316 in a line in place of the bulb and outside the meter case I used a resistor to limit the current. It looks pretty cool but very "blue." Now that I see the result I'm thinking that maybe white LEDs like a 276-320 would have been better choice as even the white LEDs look somewhat blueish to me. Anyone have any experiences using LEDs to replace bulbs on receivers? Yeah, I used a blue LED to replace an incandescent on a Telefunken HD5000. The device was behind a green filter. The result was very, very blue. With no trace of green. I went back to white. I've also used white LED's, which created a heated debate here, to replace the dial light on my T/O 3000-1. The results are good. Covering the bulb with a thin tissue produced better results than sanding. Abrading with steel wool produced the best dispersion results. I've also done some experimentation replacing the fuse type bulbs in my Marantz 2218 with LED's. The results, so far, have been less than exceptional. I tried replacing the stereo pilot on the Marantz with an LED, but the incandescent was integrated into the circuit, so I need to build a resistive network that emulates the incandescent in operation, and tap the LED out of that. Digi-key offers a drop in LED replacement for a number of bayonet and screw in incandescents both A/C and D/C. The lighting circuits for both my McKay Dymek AM-5 and McIntosh C-26 are odd values so a direct drop in isn't available. And the Mc Kay rips the lighting voltage out of another circuit, so draw, and drop will have to closely approximate the incandescents. Then again, I'll only have to do it once. The upside of LED replacement of incandescents is two fold. The lower heat generated has enabled me to restore some of the cosmetics which were damaged by the heat. And pretty early in the life of the receiver, at that. The purity of colors has made for some very striking dials. The light blue accents on the tuning scale and the red accents on the function indicators are visible from the street when the lights are low in the living room. Right now I'm looking at the bluest meter on the west coast and the moving red needle looks almost iridescent. Things with LED's can get pretty surreal when there are colors involved. And the color gels in place for the incandescents, don't matter. |
#3
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Telamon wrote:
Anyone have any experiences using LEDs to replace bulbs on receivers? The diode current would be the main concern as far as I can see. A common maximum LED current is 20 ma., so you'd have to calculate the resistance value needed to limit the current using the voltage available at the bulb socket. You could probably use the old base from the bulb to make up an LED assembly, so that NO soldering or rewiring is needed inside the radio. mike |
#4
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In article
, Peter Maus wrote: Telamon wrote: The lamp burned out and instead of replacing it with another blue/green bulb I elected to use LEDs. I sanded the surface of the LED case to make the light it generated non-directional. I used three blue ones from Radio shack 276-316 in a line in place of the bulb and outside the meter case I used a resistor to limit the current. It looks pretty cool but very "blue." Now that I see the result I'm thinking that maybe white LEDs like a 276-320 would have been better choice as even the white LEDs look somewhat blueish to me. Anyone have any experiences using LEDs to replace bulbs on receivers? Yeah, I used a blue LED to replace an incandescent on a Telefunken HD5000. The device was behind a green filter. The result was very, very blue. With no trace of green. I went back to white. I've also used white LED's, which created a heated debate here, to replace the dial light on my T/O 3000-1. The results are good. Covering the bulb with a thin tissue produced better results than sanding. Abrading with steel wool produced the best dispersion results. I've also done some experimentation replacing the fuse type bulbs in my Marantz 2218 with LED's. The results, so far, have been less than exceptional. I tried replacing the stereo pilot on the Marantz with an LED, but the incandescent was integrated into the circuit, so I need to build a resistive network that emulates the incandescent in operation, and tap the LED out of that. Digi-key offers a drop in LED replacement for a number of bayonet and screw in incandescents both A/C and D/C. The lighting circuits for both my McKay Dymek AM-5 and McIntosh C-26 are odd values so a direct drop in isn't available. And the Mc Kay rips the lighting voltage out of another circuit, so draw, and drop will have to closely approximate the incandescents. Then again, I'll only have to do it once. The upside of LED replacement of incandescents is two fold. The lower heat generated has enabled me to restore some of the cosmetics which were damaged by the heat. And pretty early in the life of the receiver, at that. The purity of colors has made for some very striking dials. The light blue accents on the tuning scale and the red accents on the function indicators are visible from the street when the lights are low in the living room. Right now I'm looking at the bluest meter on the west coast and the moving red needle looks almost iridescent. Things with LED's can get pretty surreal when there are colors involved. And the color gels in place for the incandescents, don't matter. The bulb in the meter is an odd one. It's a long thin tube with a wire out each end that solder to posts inside the meter case. The bulb has a blue/green colored plastic shrink tubing around it. The radio comes with schematics and parts lists but I could not find a number for the bulb just the meter itself. The lighting looked better during the day with some outside light falling on the meter face but in the dark it's much blue-er. I'm pretty sure you know what I mean since you have done the same. Well I expect that it will stay blue for at least the week now. Maybe next weekend I'll get around to replacing them with white LEDs. Besides not knowing where to get the bulb it is the only non-LED indicator on the radio and I did not want have to worry about it burning out again. I'll have to give the steel wool a shot also. Thanks for the advice. -- Telamon Ventura, California |
#5
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Telamon wrote:
In article , Peter Maus wrote: Telamon wrote: The lamp burned out and instead of replacing it with another blue/green bulb I elected to use LEDs. I sanded the surface of the LED case to make the light it generated non-directional. I used three blue ones from Radio shack 276-316 in a line in place of the bulb and outside the meter case I used a resistor to limit the current. It looks pretty cool but very "blue." Now that I see the result I'm thinking that maybe white LEDs like a 276-320 would have been better choice as even the white LEDs look somewhat blueish to me. Anyone have any experiences using LEDs to replace bulbs on receivers? Yeah, I used a blue LED to replace an incandescent on a Telefunken HD5000. The device was behind a green filter. The result was very, very blue. With no trace of green. I went back to white. I've also used white LED's, which created a heated debate here, to replace the dial light on my T/O 3000-1. The results are good. Covering the bulb with a thin tissue produced better results than sanding. Abrading with steel wool produced the best dispersion results. I've also done some experimentation replacing the fuse type bulbs in my Marantz 2218 with LED's. The results, so far, have been less than exceptional. I tried replacing the stereo pilot on the Marantz with an LED, but the incandescent was integrated into the circuit, so I need to build a resistive network that emulates the incandescent in operation, and tap the LED out of that. Digi-key offers a drop in LED replacement for a number of bayonet and screw in incandescents both A/C and D/C. The lighting circuits for both my McKay Dymek AM-5 and McIntosh C-26 are odd values so a direct drop in isn't available. And the Mc Kay rips the lighting voltage out of another circuit, so draw, and drop will have to closely approximate the incandescents. Then again, I'll only have to do it once. The upside of LED replacement of incandescents is two fold. The lower heat generated has enabled me to restore some of the cosmetics which were damaged by the heat. And pretty early in the life of the receiver, at that. The purity of colors has made for some very striking dials. The light blue accents on the tuning scale and the red accents on the function indicators are visible from the street when the lights are low in the living room. Right now I'm looking at the bluest meter on the west coast and the moving red needle looks almost iridescent. Things with LED's can get pretty surreal when there are colors involved. And the color gels in place for the incandescents, don't matter. The bulb in the meter is an odd one. It's a long thin tube with a wire out each end that solder to posts inside the meter case. The bulb has a blue/green colored plastic shrink tubing around it. The radio comes with schematics and parts lists but I could not find a number for the bulb just the meter itself. The lighting looked better during the day with some outside light falling on the meter face but in the dark it's much blue-er. I'm pretty sure you know what I mean since you have done the same. Same bulbs as in my console. They run hot. Replacing them is a PITA. So, I went with LED's too. I went with white, in that application, rather than blue, precisely for the reason you stated. Now, my Focusrite preamps have blue lighting on the meter, and that looks pretty sharp. But the meter face isn't off white, either. Sometimes, you gotta just cut and try. Well I expect that it will stay blue for at least the week now. Maybe next weekend I'll get around to replacing them with white LEDs. You might find that white led's may be produce too much glare. And the higher blue content of the output will produce a less natural coloring than you've grown accustomed to with the incandescent. Incandescents produce light with more yellow content than a white LED. But a white LED will take a filter with better efficacy than a single wavelength. Using a paper filter will serve you here in producing both the right amount of diffusion, and a more natural color. Besides not knowing where to get the bulb it is the only non-LED indicator on the radio and I did not want have to worry about it burning out again. I'll have to give the steel wool a shot also. Thanks for the advice. For what it's worth. |
#6
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In article ,
Peter Maus wrote: Telamon wrote: In article , Peter Maus wrote: Telamon wrote: The lamp burned out and instead of replacing it with another blue/green bulb I elected to use LEDs. I sanded the surface of the LED case to make the light it generated non-directional. I used three blue ones from Radio shack 276-316 in a line in place of the bulb and outside the meter case I used a resistor to limit the current. It looks pretty cool but very "blue." Now that I see the result I'm thinking that maybe white LEDs like a 276-320 would have been better choice as even the white LEDs look somewhat blueish to me. Anyone have any experiences using LEDs to replace bulbs on receivers? Yeah, I used a blue LED to replace an incandescent on a Telefunken HD5000. The device was behind a green filter. The result was very, very blue. With no trace of green. I went back to white. I've also used white LED's, which created a heated debate here, to replace the dial light on my T/O 3000-1. The results are good. Covering the bulb with a thin tissue produced better results than sanding. Abrading with steel wool produced the best dispersion results. I've also done some experimentation replacing the fuse type bulbs in my Marantz 2218 with LED's. The results, so far, have been less than exceptional. I tried replacing the stereo pilot on the Marantz with an LED, but the incandescent was integrated into the circuit, so I need to build a resistive network that emulates the incandescent in operation, and tap the LED out of that. Digi-key offers a drop in LED replacement for a number of bayonet and screw in incandescents both A/C and D/C. The lighting circuits for both my McKay Dymek AM-5 and McIntosh C-26 are odd values so a direct drop in isn't available. And the Mc Kay rips the lighting voltage out of another circuit, so draw, and drop will have to closely approximate the incandescents. Then again, I'll only have to do it once. The upside of LED replacement of incandescents is two fold. The lower heat generated has enabled me to restore some of the cosmetics which were damaged by the heat. And pretty early in the life of the receiver, at that. The purity of colors has made for some very striking dials. The light blue accents on the tuning scale and the red accents on the function indicators are visible from the street when the lights are low in the living room. Right now I'm looking at the bluest meter on the west coast and the moving red needle looks almost iridescent. Things with LED's can get pretty surreal when there are colors involved. And the color gels in place for the incandescents, don't matter. The bulb in the meter is an odd one. It's a long thin tube with a wire out each end that solder to posts inside the meter case. The bulb has a blue/green colored plastic shrink tubing around it. The radio comes with schematics and parts lists but I could not find a number for the bulb just the meter itself. The lighting looked better during the day with some outside light falling on the meter face but in the dark it's much blue-er. I'm pretty sure you know what I mean since you have done the same. Same bulbs as in my console. They run hot. Replacing them is a PITA. So, I went with LED's too. I went with white, in that application, rather than blue, precisely for the reason you stated. Now, my Focusrite preamps have blue lighting on the meter, and that looks pretty sharp. But the meter face isn't off white, either. Sometimes, you gotta just cut and try. Well I expect that it will stay blue for at least the week now. Maybe next weekend I'll get around to replacing them with white LEDs. You might find that white led's may be produce too much glare. And the higher blue content of the output will produce a less natural coloring than you've grown accustomed to with the incandescent. Incandescents produce light with more yellow content than a white LED. But a white LED will take a filter with better efficacy than a single wavelength. Using a paper filter will serve you here in producing both the right amount of diffusion, and a more natural color. Besides not knowing where to get the bulb it is the only non-LED indicator on the radio and I did not want have to worry about it burning out again. I'll have to give the steel wool a shot also. Thanks for the advice. For what it's worth. I was able to stop by Radio shack at lunch time and bought the white LEDs. Sanded the entire surface of the LEDs so they looked frosted. Used three of them again across the bottom of the meter. Pointed the outside ones toward the top corners and made sure they did not tilt toward the back of the meter scale so the light is diffuse as possible. I'm happy with the results. -- Telamon Ventura, California |
#7
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Telamon wrote:
In article , Peter Maus wrote: Telamon wrote: In article , Peter Maus wrote: Telamon wrote: The lamp burned out and instead of replacing it with another blue/green bulb I elected to use LEDs. I sanded the surface of the LED case to make the light it generated non-directional. I used three blue ones from Radio shack 276-316 in a line in place of the bulb and outside the meter case I used a resistor to limit the current. It looks pretty cool but very "blue." Now that I see the result I'm thinking that maybe white LEDs like a 276-320 would have been better choice as even the white LEDs look somewhat blueish to me. Anyone have any experiences using LEDs to replace bulbs on receivers? Yeah, I used a blue LED to replace an incandescent on a Telefunken HD5000. The device was behind a green filter. The result was very, very blue. With no trace of green. I went back to white. I've also used white LED's, which created a heated debate here, to replace the dial light on my T/O 3000-1. The results are good. Covering the bulb with a thin tissue produced better results than sanding. Abrading with steel wool produced the best dispersion results. I've also done some experimentation replacing the fuse type bulbs in my Marantz 2218 with LED's. The results, so far, have been less than exceptional. I tried replacing the stereo pilot on the Marantz with an LED, but the incandescent was integrated into the circuit, so I need to build a resistive network that emulates the incandescent in operation, and tap the LED out of that. Digi-key offers a drop in LED replacement for a number of bayonet and screw in incandescents both A/C and D/C. The lighting circuits for both my McKay Dymek AM-5 and McIntosh C-26 are odd values so a direct drop in isn't available. And the Mc Kay rips the lighting voltage out of another circuit, so draw, and drop will have to closely approximate the incandescents. Then again, I'll only have to do it once. The upside of LED replacement of incandescents is two fold. The lower heat generated has enabled me to restore some of the cosmetics which were damaged by the heat. And pretty early in the life of the receiver, at that. The purity of colors has made for some very striking dials. The light blue accents on the tuning scale and the red accents on the function indicators are visible from the street when the lights are low in the living room. Right now I'm looking at the bluest meter on the west coast and the moving red needle looks almost iridescent. Things with LED's can get pretty surreal when there are colors involved. And the color gels in place for the incandescents, don't matter. The bulb in the meter is an odd one. It's a long thin tube with a wire out each end that solder to posts inside the meter case. The bulb has a blue/green colored plastic shrink tubing around it. The radio comes with schematics and parts lists but I could not find a number for the bulb just the meter itself. The lighting looked better during the day with some outside light falling on the meter face but in the dark it's much blue-er. I'm pretty sure you know what I mean since you have done the same. Same bulbs as in my console. They run hot. Replacing them is a PITA. So, I went with LED's too. I went with white, in that application, rather than blue, precisely for the reason you stated. Now, my Focusrite preamps have blue lighting on the meter, and that looks pretty sharp. But the meter face isn't off white, either. Sometimes, you gotta just cut and try. Well I expect that it will stay blue for at least the week now. Maybe next weekend I'll get around to replacing them with white LEDs. You might find that white led's may be produce too much glare. And the higher blue content of the output will produce a less natural coloring than you've grown accustomed to with the incandescent. Incandescents produce light with more yellow content than a white LED. But a white LED will take a filter with better efficacy than a single wavelength. Using a paper filter will serve you here in producing both the right amount of diffusion, and a more natural color. Besides not knowing where to get the bulb it is the only non-LED indicator on the radio and I did not want have to worry about it burning out again. I'll have to give the steel wool a shot also. Thanks for the advice. For what it's worth. I was able to stop by Radio shack at lunch time and bought the white LEDs. Sanded the entire surface of the LEDs so they looked frosted. Used three of them again across the bottom of the meter. Pointed the outside ones toward the top corners and made sure they did not tilt toward the back of the meter scale so the light is diffuse as possible. I'm happy with the results. Careful. That's how flamefests begin. That happiness....it just ****es some people off. Nice touch, though...aiming the led's. And you won't have to do this again for at least 11 years. |
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